Fear Biters – the Right Approach
A deep growl, the lips are drawn upwards, and already the teeth snap shut – every year, in Germany alone, thousands of people are bitten by dogs. From light pressure marks through bloody scratches to gaping bite wounds, almost any outcome is possible. Often the end of a biting attack depends less on the dog itself than on how the people involved react. For the fewest dog bites are really the result of aggressiveness. Most dogs bite rather out of fear and insecurity; they are fear biters. Through correct behaviour, these bites can easily be avoided.
We now clear up the right approach to fear biters and try to put everything into the proper light!
What is meant by a fear biter?
Fear biters is the term for insecure dogs that experience an unnaturally large number of situations as threatening and try to "protect" themselves with defensive behaviour. Often these dogs were not socialised in their puppy phase and got to know few stimuli during the decisive imprinting phase.
This can go so far that even an approaching pedestrian, a passing bicycle or an unexpected step in its direction is interpreted as a threat, which entails a defensive threatening gesture. Accordingly, these dogs are almost constantly stressed. But so are their owners, for after all they are constantly worried that their dog might bite someone or even itself.
That is why it is important, with fear biters, to react quickly and to train an adequate repertoire of behaviour into them. This does demand a lot of time and commitment, and sometimes also the help of a professional, but ultimately both dog and owner benefit from it, because both can enjoy their life together more relaxedly.
Insecure dogs and aggressive dogs – a distinction
Some might perhaps say: "Doesn't matter whether the dog is anxious or aggressive – a bite is a bite, after all!" That is not quite true, however. For while an aggressive dog attacks in order to underline its dominance, an anxious dog merely tries to free itself from a supposedly threatening situation. That is why fear biters normally cause only light bite wounds and often only nip. That is often enough to secure the desired free space for flight.
Aggressive dogs, on the other hand, bite in order to drive away or injure their opponent, to indicate their higher position in the pack or, in the most extreme case, even because they identify a small child as prey. Accordingly, these bites often have far more fatal consequences; attacks here can even end fatally.
The warning signs of a bite are also different. While fear biters at first try to dodge, threatening with a tucked-in tail and a crouched posture, aggressive dogs make themselves big. They fixate their opponent with a rigid gaze, the fur bristles, the posture is broad, directed forwards and self-assured.
How fear bites can be avoided
Since fear biters bite out of supposed threat situations, one would think bites could be avoided by avoiding threatening situations. Unfortunately it is not that simple, for what fear biters perceive as threatening is not always comprehensible from the outside. Also, the insecurity and anxiety have often already become so entrenched in the animal's behaviour that it is almost impossible to create a space without supposed threats. But that by no means implies being able to do nothing. First of all, the thought, the constant fear of a fear bite, must give way in order to be able to tackle the work on the dog. For the dog senses the worry. Insecure dog + insecure owner = no solution to the problem, but in the worst case the problem multiplies.
For the encounter of an anxious and insecure dog with another dog or person to work well and without incident, its behaviour must first be observed closely. Body posture and physical retreat are often clear signs of whether the four-legged friend feels threatened.
So that an insecure dog can be and remain relaxed, observe the following points:
- Never approach an insecure dog from behind, but always in such a way that it has everything in its field of vision.
- If the dog backs away, avoid crowding it or following it.
- Avoid loud noises and sweeping gestures that could frighten the dog.
- Direct eye contact is a sign of dominance in dogs – therefore do not stare an insecure dog directly in the eyes; it could take it as a threat.
- An anxious dog always needs enough room to retreat. For retreat will always be the first choice for an insecure dog, ahead of aggression.
Re-educating fear biters
Owners of an insecure dog that reacts aggressively out of fear do, however, have a further option for avoiding fear bites in future: namely by re-educating the fear biter.
For, as already mentioned, defensive aggression often goes back to insufficient socialisation. The dog gets to know other dogs and also people from an early age. In doing so, certain behaviours are learned and practised. This gradual adaptation to rules is called "socialisation". Take the following example: Mrs Müller's Chihuahua is handled with kid gloves from an early age. Here the human mind dominates. The Chihuahua doesn't even know that it is small. Other dogs are mostly too big and wild, and so the little furry nose is better off staying at home. Puppy school and training often do not take place – it's only a little dog, after all. And when the little dog is distrustful towards the neighbour, it is of course taken under protection. The dog from now on associates a reward situation with this.
Contact with other dogs is often completely lacking, and the human reacts with human reactions to animal behaviour (well meant, but usually wrong). Learning experience = zero. Insecurity spreads. Neither has a well-socialised pack mate ever put it in its place nor taken it under protection, and the human has reacted humanly, but not in a canine way. And yet the little dog only needs security – security in the sense of: I know exactly how I have to behave now, because I know this situation. If all this is missing, the result is quite often clear: insecure dog, yapper, biter. But that is only a brief example of many. With rescue dogs, negative experiences with people are often added. But whether small or large dog: without sufficient socialisation, undesirable behaviour patterns develop, and these are homemade.
However, even difficult dogs can be resocialised with sufficient time, commitment and expertise. Since fear biters are normally particularly insecure animals, security above all plays a large role in their socialisation. The dog must learn to calm down; in any case, an insecure and anxious dog should be assigned its own quiet room to which it can retreat undisturbed in stressful situations.
Extremely important is the role that dog owners play
An insecure dog also draws security and self-confidence from the relationship. A stable social system in the home "pack" (that is, in its family) helps an anxious dog to find security – for whoever knows where their place is does not have to worry and waver constantly. Consistent daily routines and rituals make orientation in everyday life easier; a master or mistress who stays calm even in stressful situations conveys security, but so does the application of clear rules. The dog is not allowed into the kitchen, for example. OK, but then always, without exception. The dog knows where it stands, is also not cross about it, but now knows where it does not belong. Completely OK for the dog.
Positive contact with other, well-socialised dogs can also help an insecure four-legged friend to become more relaxed and to react less defensively to certain situations. Sometimes it is also worthwhile to give an insecure dog a laid-back second dog for company – that is not a cure-all, however.
If the defensive aggression is already pronounced, it is often wiser to seek the targeted help of a dog trainer than to keep trying for a long time yourself while the situation becomes further entrenched. Do not shy away from getting help from an expert. Overcoming the problem will in any case have a positive effect on the relationship between dog owner and dog!
React before the first bite
If the dog is not yet a fear biter, but still an insecure puppy, intervention is of course easier, for here no destructive behaviours have yet become entrenched.
However, well-meaning owners often make the same mistake time and again with insecure puppies and young dogs. When frightening situations arise, the puppy is removed from the situation and comforted over the fright with plenty of stroking and attention. The consequence: the puppy associates its fear with a reward situation. It is better to give the puppy the opportunity to face frightening situations. As an owner, you should be calm, so that the puppy can "copy" this calmness.
Working with the dog is worthwhile
Resocialising a fear biter may involve a lot of work and demand time and commitment – keeping a fear biter and constantly worrying whether more serious injuries might not occur after all is, however, by far more exhausting. The effort put into the dog's resocialisation is worthwhile. A relaxed life together with a happy dog is the deserved reward.
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The content of the articles is for general information purposes only and does not replace diagnosis or treatment by a veterinarian. This information does not constitute medical advice and should not be construed as such.
